This week took us back to the Waitakere Ranges on the Auckland peninsula and to spectacular Bethells Beach, or Te Henga, the Maori name meaning “sand”. The area has beautiful black sand beaches and enormous dunes that originated from the volcanic rocks that have carried it there along the Tasman Sea.

We hiked the Lake Wainuma track, the lake being naturally dammed over the last 6,500 years from the sand blown inland. Even though the weather was fairly cool, upper 60s, we discovered that the black sand was hot when we decided to take a short cut over a steep dune in our bare feet! One of the “sports” that we did NOT try in this area is “sandboarding” down the dunes…I had to talk Tracey out of it :). More eating, enjoyed a “West Coast Burger” after we worked up the appetite on the dunes at a fun little beachside type food “cart” called Bethells Cafe.

The next road trip included a drive to the Coromandel Peninsula, located to the east of the Auckland Peninsula across the Hauraki Gulf and the Firth of Thames. The eastern edge of the peninsula is on the Pacific Ocean. The peninsula can also be reached by ferry in a couple hours from Auckland. It is very mountainous and thus relatively unpopulated…only five towns on the peninsula have populations of over 1000.

The first day we stopped at Cathedral Cove at Hahei Beach, accessible only by foot. Being Christmas week and summer here, there were quite a few visitors, but nothing like you would encounter on a Florida beach during “season”. It is tough to describe in words (and even pictures) the awesome views, cliffs, beaches, rock formations, and so many shades of green and blue. At times it reminded us of Hawaii, the Caribbean islands, and the pacific northwest of the US. The area was formed by ongoing earthquakes and volcanos…volcanic domes and sub-domes cover the region. This volcanic activity has provided the source for hot springs at Hot Water Beach where you can dig a couple feet down in the sand to create your own “hot pool”. The pool that forms must be mixed with some cool ocean water however, since the hot water itself is over 140 degrees F!

We spent a couple nights at the east coast town of Whitianga to explore the area. The area of Whitianga has some terrific bays and beaches. A short two minute ferry ride takes you across Mercury Bay to Ferry Landing. The area is surrounded by three sheer cliffs that we hiked across down to gorgeous Flaxmill Bay. We also hiked up to Shakespeare Cliff – a historic reserve that was named by Captain James Cook in 1769 as he thought the rock outlined the face of Shakespeare. Apparently this is where Cook placed the English flag, declaring New Zealand for King George III.

We had lunch at Flaxmill’s Bay at a unique place called Eggsentric Cafe. They admittedly have worked to create a “cultural center” that is aimed at not only your tastebuds but also “satisfying your sight with painting and sculpture and your hearing with live music”, both local, national and international artists. They work to use local food and suppliers and organic where possible. We shared a delicious beef and mushroom pie and seafood chowder. A very cool unique place!

On the way back to Auckland we took the road over the mountain range to Coromandel Town. A bit cloudy but still some great views of the town on approach from the mountain top. We were impressed by the large shallow bay and the beds they had to farm oysters and mussels. The area is known for its green lipped mussels, apparently world famous. We had sampled these a couple nights prior at a restaurant called Squids in Whitianga, delicious! So we tried these again at a great place called Coromandel Mussel Kitchen and Brewing Company! I have also just read that these mussels are now being hailed for their apparent health benefits…to ease arthritis pain (click here for article). One way or the other, great food!

We decided to take a train ride just outside of Coromandel Town. I must say I was a bit skeptical to visit the Driving Creek Railway, a small gauge bush and mountain railway just outside of Coromandel Town. I am glad we did…quite a story. The railway was built by Barry Brickell, a potter, writer, and conservationist. His work started on the property beginning in the 1960s. All of the original rail he laid himself. He originally used the railway to bring clay and pine wood fuel for his kiln, later using it to help replant the hillsides with kauri trees and other native plants. It is 2.6km, includes three tunnels and ten bridges over very steep and complex terrain. The railway has had over 1 million passengers over the years.

Proceeds fund a wildlife sanctuary and forest restoration. aimed at restoring the land to its “uniquely magnificent indigenous kauri tree forests (the Kauri forests are among the most ancient in the world, appearing during the Jurassic period. The trees normally live over 600 years, many over 1,000 years). Barry just celebrated his 80th birthday last October and still lives on the land.

See below for more pics from this trip!