Thailand’s Ancient Cities

On Saturday, after four nights in Bangkok, we packed up early and are on our way via taxi to Hue Laphong train station for our trip to Ayutthaya.  Ayutthaya, about 70 km north of Bangkok, was once the capital of Thailand.

img_6181 dsc06047Ayutthaya, for two nights, will be our first stop of three of Thailand’s Ancient cities. We will spend one night in Lopburi, one night in Phitsanulok, and two nights in Sukhothai en route to Chang Mai.

img_6285 img_6278We took the air conditioned train, actually a nice train.  It included a lunch that rivals airline food – packaged chili mackerel, spicy chicken and rice.  I sampled it all of course.  Not a bad train ride for two tickets totaling $21!

img_3230 img_6251We arrived in Ayutthaya in about 90 minutes.  We caught a ten minute tuk tuk ride to our home for the next two nights.  We were greeted warmly by Win, the enthusiastic owner of this nice authentic abode in the middle of the park and spectacular old city ruins, the Park Ayuttaya Guest House. A beautiful suite with balconies!  And a great location.

We strolled along some of the many many ruins in the afternoon.  For lunch we stopped in for some Pad Se Eew, fried rice and a cold Singha.  

dsc05822After lunch, we explored more amazing ruins of this old vast city that in 1700 was the largest in the world at one million people. 

dsc04544The original city of Ayutthaya was filled with Buddhist monasteries and temples and was nearly burnt to the ground by the Burmese in 1757.  It is amazing to imagine what life was like in this area…if walls could talk.

dsc04570 dsc04518We explored the Wat Mahathat built in 1370 A.D. located in the center of Ayutthaya, basically across the street from our lodging.  At one time, it was the residence of the leader of the Thai Buddhist monks.  One area, much photographed, is the Buddha head embedded in the roots of the fig tree.  The thinking is that at one time the roots were used to conceal the Buddha image.

dsc04628We walked more of this beautiful park with the remarkable views of the monumental ruins.  One last stop before home took as to Wat Phra Si Samphet, with towering ancient temples and buildings remaining.  The sun was going down and the colors were spectacular.

img_6222 img_6229Home to shower up, feet up for a few minutes and off to the night markets. The markets were impressive, at least many vendors and all kinds of Thai food, about one third of which I could not recognize. We (mostly me) sampled a little BBQ pork, pineapple and some things that looked actually like baby tacos! All delicious and my kinda dinner…about three dollars!  The Singha and Chang beers were a bit more at the little spot we stopped at on the way home…nine dollars, and probably more calories. Good starch though!

dsc05696 dsc05755Day two in Ayutthaya is a good day for biking.  We have logged about three – seven mile days in a row, walking.  So we needed to work some different muscles and rest the dogs.  After a relaxing breakfast at our place, we rented a couple bikes.  One hundred baht, or three dollars for the day.  We have threatened to rent bikes all through New Zealand and Australia but this is our first! We cycled around the city during the morning, passing by many of the ruins.  We ended up at the Reclining Buddha or Phra Noo, at Wat Lokayasutharam.

dsc05785We also went by the elephant center and along the elephant walking path. It was interesting biking along the path…a good idea to yield to the elephants!

We enjoyed a lunch at a local restaurant to chill a bit from the heat. Again, almost as hot as Sarasota, perhaps a little less humid.  We went for chicken basil and cashew chicken.  

dsc05802 img_3233After lunch we strolled through more ruins on the way back home.  Time for a little afternoon siesta before a late afternoon boat ride around the river that surrounds the city.

dsc04717 dsc04728The ride around the Chao Phraya river that surrounds the Island of Ayutthaya, travels by beautiful temples and monasteries, some still operating to this day.  We made four stops in our narrow long tail boat holding about 16 passengers.  The currents in the river are strong and we passed several large barges being tugged by rope!

After the boat cruise for dinner we returned to the place where we had cold Singha last night, Ayutthaya Heritage Restaurant and Bar. Spring rolls, chicken with oyster sauce and chicken panang curry for dinner!  And, a couple more Singha! Excellent food and maybe the best spring rolls, ever!

Lopburi

img_6273Our day begins with breakfast.  We enjoyed our stay at Park Ayutthaya and our very kind host Win.  After breakfast the short train journey begins to Lopburi, Thailand on the 12:16 pm.  Lopburi is 130 km north of Bangkok and about 60 km north of Ayutthaya.  It is an old city, with ancient ruins, as well.  Another smooth air conditioned ride.  We barely had time to eat the lunch served and we were there!

dsc05998 dsc06003However, the attraction here to tourists are the macaque monkeys that inhabit the city. Lopburi’s monkeys are a type of macaque, the second most common primates in the world. They are bandits, anxious to steal your food or other items.  They are known to even snatch cameras. Tracey had the monkey on her back on Gibraltar last year when she unwrapped a candy from her purse! So she already learned her lesson of caution.

Our place for the night was about 10 minutes out of the old town, or 6 km.  Once off the train, we did not spot a taxi right away and had a bicycle tuk tuk wanting to give us a ride.  No way, with our luggage.  Eventually we figured out where the taxi was sitting.  He wasn’t very assertive in generating business.

dsc05954To go to the temple and shrine inhabited by monkeys, Phra Kaan Shrine and Phra Prang Sam Yod, we took the local “bus” back to old town.  At the temples the monkeys were everywhere!  The monkeys were also making their way across the crazy busy street, without getting struck!  

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dsc05991At the temple across the street, a tour bus had stopped and were feeding the monkeys.  Kinda interesting they give you food to feed them and then walk around with a slingshot just in case they start to attack or bite.  We never saw the slingshot used but there was some yelling at them to make them back off.  If someone was carrying a large bag they usually went for that.  I just had my camera bag and Tracey had a small handbag…so nothing too interesting for them.  Nothing digestible anyway.  One baby monkey did grab me around my calf. He eventually let go.

We walked around old town, monkeys on the sidewalks, rooftops, power lines, windows, and even sitting on some motorcycles.  They were crawling along the power lines to get from one temple to the next.  Mayhem!

dsc04817 dsc04822We eventfully found the entrance to King Narai’s Palace.  The museum was closed but we were met at the entrance by the keepers who were excited to have their picture taken with a couple Americans and welcomed us to walk the grounds.  So kind!  The grounds were beautiful!  Swy!

dsc06039It was also a Monday afternoon and just in time to see school let out.  We were walking around some very local areas, no tourists but many merchants, food stalls and schools.  I tried my first fish balls with hot sauce.  These were excellent!  A bit like a hush puppy.

dsc04841 dsc06034There were plenty of school kids around.  I think they enjoyed seeing us as much as we enjoyed seeing them.  The kids helped us find the right bus as Tracey shared the translation of our desired location with the them.  The driver of the bus insisted we squeeze in front with him, while the back was packed with kids.  Each time the bus stopped the kids would walk up to the front passenger side to pay the driver, usually with big smiles as they saw us! 

We stopped at the nearby Big C, a shopping mall much like the Woolworth or Coles malls in Australia, or like our Publix or Walmart with a grocery attached in Sarasota Florida.  We ate dinner at our hotel, not bad.  I went for the spicy chicken basil with a little extra spice and Tracey had ginger chicken.  This with a beer and sparkling water…$200 baht or nearly $6! 

Phitsanulok

img_6306We had a good breakfast at the hotel.  We started with a traditional Thai breakfast, but the kind chef insisted that we have an American breakfast as well.  After breakfast, we are off to catch the 10:25 train to Phitsanulok.  It is another city, a bit off the warn and beaten tourist track. 


dsc06059The ride up takes us through rural areas, rice paddies, and past several magnificent temples and Buddha images. 
Phitsanulok is at the crossroads of the north and central regions of Thailand.  It is about 350 km north of Bangkok. We are staying at a modern hotel, the Ayara Grand Palace Hotel in the middle of town. 

dsc04855dsc06077A short walk from our hotel is one of the major attractions here, Wat Phra Sri Rattana Mahathat, known locally as Wat Yai (simply the big temple).  The temple was built in 1357 and the haloed Buddha statue was coated in gold in 1931.

dsc04862 dsc04873We then walked across the river to the Royal Palace and museum.  The museum was about to close in ten minutes but the guard made sure we got in to see it.  The museum is an impressive collection of history from the 14th century and covers the excavations of the site, as well.  Excavations of new areas were occurring  when we were there.  The kind guard made sure we saw the key temple remains on the site.

For dinner we went across the street from the hotel, Grandpa’s Home.  Surprisingly with a name like that it was all locals. A large table of ladies were just leaving and seemed eager to practice their English on us.  When we said we were from America they referred fondly to “America” and President Obama. Very kind ladies.  

Sukhothai

dsc04935 dsc04933Sukhothai is 427 km north of Bangkok and was once the capital of the Thai empire for 140 years.  It dates back to the 13th century, and is often referred to as the golden age of Thai civilization. At least 193 ancient temples have been excavated and is an incredible UNESCO site.  We traveled by taxi to arrive in Sukhothai, for only $30!

The majority of the ruins lie within a large rectangular area, which make it convenient for exploring. Many people bike through the area.  Our wonderful Sukhothai style lodging provides bikes at no extra charge.  

dsc04924 dsc06232Wat Mahathat is impressive and the largest of the temples.  The town was preparing for a Festival of Lights that will occur the weekend after we leave.  The giant seated Buddha at Wat Si Chum is also impressive.  It is over 45 feet tall! We had a cloudy day the first day and thunderstorms the second but still managed to do many of the ruins.

dsc06169 dsc06130Sukhothai seems to have fewer tourists. It has the same warm, friendly and smiling people! It has many restaurant choices, as well as, a good sized street market.  We enjoyed both!

This has been a fairly quick trip through the ancient cities of Siam, but time well spent and wonderful experiences!

And a few more pics!

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2 Comments

  • Wow! What amazing sites and adventures you’re having! We miss Australia and wish we were still traveling with you guys. Have you run into any Cassowaries?

    • Please come join us anytime! Japan in the near future, more plans bubbling for 2017. No cassowaries but some buffalo hanging out in a traffic roundabout in Hanoi. Wish I had the pic. Getting used to traffic driving on the right again, although in Hanoi the driving is pretty much right or left side, lol.

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